Saturday, June 23, 2012

Practice of Natural Cures


Nature cure is a constructive method of treatment which aims at removing the basic cause of
disease through the rational use of the elements freely available in nature. It is not only a system
of healing, but also a way of life, in tune with the internal vital forces or natural elements
comprising the human body. It is a complete revolution in the art and science of living.

Although the term ‘ naturopathy’ is of relatively recent origin, the philosophical basis and several
of the methods of nature cure treatments are ancient. It was practised in ancient Egypt, Greece
and Rome. Hippocrates, the father of medicine ( 460-357 B.C.) strongly advocated it. India, it
appears, was much further advanced in older days in natural healing system than other
countries of the world. There are references in India’s ancient sacred books about the extensive
use of nature’s excellent healing agents such as air, earth, water and sun. The Great Baths of
the Indus Valley civilisation as discovered at Mohenjodaro in old Sind testifies to the use of water
for curative purposes in ancient India.

The modern methods of nature cure originated in Germany in 1822, when Vincent Priessnitz
established the first hydropathic establishment there. With his great success in water cure, the
idea of drugless healing spread throughout the civilised world and many medical practitioners
throughout the civilised world and many medical practitioners from America and other countries
became his enthusiastic students and disciples. These students subsequently enlarged and
developed the various methods of natural healing in their own way. The whole mass of
knowledge was later collected under one name, Naturopathy. The credit for the name

Naturopathy goes to Dr. Benedict Lust ( 1872 - 1945), and hence he is called the Father of

Naturopathy.
Nature cure is based on the realisation that man is born healthy and strong and that he can stay
as such as living in accordance with the laws of nature. Even if born with some inherited
affliction, the individual can eliminate it by putting to the best use the natural agents of healing.
Fresh air, sunshine, a proper diet, exercise, scientific relaxation, constructive thinking and the
right mental attitude, along with prayer and meditation all play their part in keeping a sound mind
in a sound body.

Nature cure believes that disease is an abnormal condition of the body resulting from the
violation of the natural laws. Every such violation has repercussions on the human system in the
shape of lowered vitality, irregularities of the blood and lymph and the accumulation of waste
matter and toxins. Thus, through a faulty diet it is not the digestive system alone which is
adversely affected. When toxins accumulate, other organs such as the bowels, kidneys, skin and
lungs are overworked and cannot get rid of these harmful substances as quickly as they are
produced.

Besides this, mental and emotional disturbances cause imbalances of the vital electric field
within which cell metabolism takes place, producing toxins. When the soil of this electric filed is
undisturbed, disease-causing germs can live in it without multiplying or producing toxins. It is
only when it is disturbed or when the blood is polluted with toxic waste that the germs multiply
and become harmful.

Practice of Natural Cures


Nature cure is a constructive method of treatment which aims at removing the basic cause of
disease through the rational use of the elements freely available in nature. It is not only a system
of healing, but also a way of life, in tune with the internal vital forces or natural elements
comprising the human body. It is a complete revolution in the art and science of living.

Although the term ‘ naturopathy’ is of relatively recent origin, the philosophical basis and several
of the methods of nature cure treatments are ancient. It was practised in ancient Egypt, Greece
and Rome. Hippocrates, the father of medicine ( 460-357 B.C.) strongly advocated it. India, it
appears, was much further advanced in older days in natural healing system than other
countries of the world. There are references in India’s ancient sacred books about the extensive
use of nature’s excellent healing agents such as air, earth, water and sun. The Great Baths of
the Indus Valley civilisation as discovered at Mohenjodaro in old Sind testifies to the use of water
for curative purposes in ancient India.

The modern methods of nature cure originated in Germany in 1822, when Vincent Priessnitz
established the first hydropathic establishment there. With his great success in water cure, the
idea of drugless healing spread throughout the civilised world and many medical practitioners
throughout the civilised world and many medical practitioners from America and other countries
became his enthusiastic students and disciples. These students subsequently enlarged and
developed the various methods of natural healing in their own way. The whole mass of
knowledge was later collected under one name, Naturopathy. The credit for the name

Naturopathy goes to Dr. Benedict Lust ( 1872 - 1945), and hence he is called the Father of

Naturopathy.
Nature cure is based on the realisation that man is born healthy and strong and that he can stay
as such as living in accordance with the laws of nature. Even if born with some inherited
affliction, the individual can eliminate it by putting to the best use the natural agents of healing.
Fresh air, sunshine, a proper diet, exercise, scientific relaxation, constructive thinking and the
right mental attitude, along with prayer and meditation all play their part in keeping a sound mind
in a sound body.

Nature cure believes that disease is an abnormal condition of the body resulting from the
violation of the natural laws. Every such violation has repercussions on the human system in the
shape of lowered vitality, irregularities of the blood and lymph and the accumulation of waste
matter and toxins. Thus, through a faulty diet it is not the digestive system alone which is
adversely affected. When toxins accumulate, other organs such as the bowels, kidneys, skin and
lungs are overworked and cannot get rid of these harmful substances as quickly as they are
produced.

Besides this, mental and emotional disturbances cause imbalances of the vital electric field
within which cell metabolism takes place, producing toxins. When the soil of this electric filed is
undisturbed, disease-causing germs can live in it without multiplying or producing toxins. It is
only when it is disturbed or when the blood is polluted with toxic waste that the germs multiply
and become harmful.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Emergency Shelter

When you just want to get out of the elements for a little while, one of these may be the answer, they provide minimal protection and could never be described as comfortable, but they may make the difference between life and death if you are too tired or injured to construct anything more elaborate. (For pictures/diagrams see: http://forums.cosmoaccess.net/forum/survival/prep/shelter.htm)BoughShelter Look for branches that sweep to the ground or fallen boughs that offer protection from the wind-ensure they are secure enough not to fall on you though! You may want to secure them by lashing (see diagram). Weave in other branches to add supplemental protection, conifers are more suited to this technique than broad leaves.

Root Shelter

The spreading roots and compacted earth at the base of a fallen tree form a useful storm barrier, if they are facing the right way. Filling in the sides around the roots will increase it's potential and provide a solid base for construction of something more elaborate.

Natural Hollow

A shallowdepression in the earth will provide some protection from wind immediately, and provides a natural basis for construction of a shelter. However care must be taken in damp areas or on hills or you'll end up under water! Lay a few light logs across the hollow and then a larger bow across them, this will give pitch to short branches laid across the top to keep out rain. Finish with turf or twigs and leaves.

Fallen Trunk

A fallen trunk alone provides a good windbreak. Scoop out a small hollow on the leeward side and construct a lean-to roof of boughs.

Stone Barriers

A shelter is more comfortable if you have enough headroom to sit up in it. So build up a low wall of stones around a hollow or shallow excavation. Caulk the walls with mud, leaves, twigs and turf, finish with a roof of branches and turf.

Sapling Shelter

If you should happen upon a growth of saplings, clear the ground between them and lash their tops together, weave branches between them and consolidate with ferns and turf. A similar effect can be gained by driving pliable branches firmly in the ground. If you have your "bug-out" or emergency kit you should have access to some form of waterproof sheeting, throw this over the saplings and weight with stones or logs.

Bashas

With a waterproof poncho, groundsheet, piece of tarpaulin or plastic sheeting you can construct what is often referred to in the forces as a "basha". There are a few designs below. Remember, always use natural shelter where possible, always insulate yourself from the ground and always secure the sheeting carefully.

Tepees

Best known as the homes of North American Indians, start by tying three or more uprights together to form a cone, you can tie them on the ground before erecting. Cover with hides, sheeting or panels of birchbark. Ensure you leave a hole at the top for ventilation.
Advanced Shelters

Snow Cave

Under conditions of heavy snow it may be impossible to find building materials, at least not quickly enough to get you out of the elements. Fortunately snow itself provides a good building material. Dig into a drift of firm snow to make a "cave". Make use of the fact that warm air rises and cold air sinks. Make your shelter on 3 levels. Build a SMALL fire on the highest, sleep in the middle and allow the low area to trap cold air. Use a stick or ice axe to force two holes in the roof, one to allow smoke to escape another to provide ventilation, fit a packed block of snow to the door.
Stick Walls

Screens

It is possible to build simple walls by piling sticks between uprights driven into the ground and (if possible) tied at the top. Fill them well with dirt to close gaps and keep out the elements.
Coverings

Make wattle and woven coverings for roofs or walls from springy saplings, small branches, plant stems, grasses or long leaves. First make a frame from less pliable material, tie off the struts and then weave in your materials. If you have little cordage drive the uprights into the ground and weave in enough of your material to make a basic framework, remove from the ground and finish.

Caves

Caves provide ready made shelter, even small caves can be made habitable and the larger ones make ideal permanent homes. Caves in rock set above valleys are normally dry inside, even if you get a little seepage through the roof. Caves can be cold and sometimes the local fauna may have beaten you to it so approach with care, if there are signs of other "inhabitants" light a fire near the entrance, but be sure to allow them an escape route, a good insulating layer of dry plant matter should help deal with the other problem. Beware of rockfall!!! Getting permanently trapped in your new home is not conducive to personal survival. Fires should be kept towards the rear of a cave, the smoke will rise and follow the roof to an exit, smoke from a fire lit near the entrance on the other hand will blow inside.

Sod House

Turf Houses are useful in areas where timber is scarce or you do not have the necessary tools to work in wood. Cut sections of turf 18x6in and build them like bricks, overlapping "Old English" fashion. Slope the walls towards the rear to give pitch to your roof, which will have to be supported by wooden spars or some other equally strong material. Make a cover as described above and attach to the spars, cover this with leaves and then a layer of turf. Build low, big enough to situp or maybe scuttle around in but not high enough to stand up straight. You can leave the leeward side open, or for a stronger build fit a doorway to the lee wall, for this however you will need timber for the frame. You can build in an internal hearth and chimney, but remember that turf is flammable, coat the hearth area thickly with clay before use, or light a fire outside the door with a fire reflector behind.

Log Cabins

The size of your log cabin will depend on two factors, the size of your timber and the number of people it is to house. A square or rectangle shape will be easiest to build and roof, 8ft square is a sensible size for a small cabin. Choose a level site to build your cabin, flatten a larger area if necessary, the walls must be level. Cutting down logs should ideally be accomplished with an axe or 2-handed saw although in a pinch the flexible saw from a survival kit will suffice. Unless you're sure you're up to the job don't attempt windows, you should get enough ventilation from the doorway, don't worry about making a door immediately, hang a blanket or other cloth over the door, it'll keep out the wind. Caulk between the logs with a mixture of mud and the wood chips from your logging, use a sharpened stick to force it into the gaps. Cover the roof with saplings before laying a layer of mud and turf. You can add a fireplace if you leave a space in the roof for smoke to escape, but never leave it unattended, put it out rather than risk a fire, if you do make a fireplace it may be worth using stone if you have a ready supply, make a fireplace and chimney from flat-sided rocks caulked with clay.

Emergency Shelter

When you just want to get out of the elements for a little while, one of these may be the answer, they provide minimal protection and could never be described as comfortable, but they may make the difference between life and death if you are too tired or injured to construct anything more elaborate. (For pictures/diagrams see: http://forums.cosmoaccess.net/forum/survival/prep/shelter.htm)BoughShelter Look for branches that sweep to the ground or fallen boughs that offer protection from the wind-ensure they are secure enough not to fall on you though! You may want to secure them by lashing (see diagram). Weave in other branches to add supplemental protection, conifers are more suited to this technique than broad leaves.

Root Shelter

The spreading roots and compacted earth at the base of a fallen tree form a useful storm barrier, if they are facing the right way. Filling in the sides around the roots will increase it's potential and provide a solid base for construction of something more elaborate.

Natural Hollow

A shallowdepression in the earth will provide some protection from wind immediately, and provides a natural basis for construction of a shelter. However care must be taken in damp areas or on hills or you'll end up under water! Lay a few light logs across the hollow and then a larger bow across them, this will give pitch to short branches laid across the top to keep out rain. Finish with turf or twigs and leaves.

Fallen Trunk

A fallen trunk alone provides a good windbreak. Scoop out a small hollow on the leeward side and construct a lean-to roof of boughs.

Stone Barriers

A shelter is more comfortable if you have enough headroom to sit up in it. So build up a low wall of stones around a hollow or shallow excavation. Caulk the walls with mud, leaves, twigs and turf, finish with a roof of branches and turf.

Sapling Shelter

If you should happen upon a growth of saplings, clear the ground between them and lash their tops together, weave branches between them and consolidate with ferns and turf. A similar effect can be gained by driving pliable branches firmly in the ground. If you have your "bug-out" or emergency kit you should have access to some form of waterproof sheeting, throw this over the saplings and weight with stones or logs.

Bashas

With a waterproof poncho, groundsheet, piece of tarpaulin or plastic sheeting you can construct what is often referred to in the forces as a "basha". There are a few designs below. Remember, always use natural shelter where possible, always insulate yourself from the ground and always secure the sheeting carefully.

Tepees

Best known as the homes of North American Indians, start by tying three or more uprights together to form a cone, you can tie them on the ground before erecting. Cover with hides, sheeting or panels of birchbark. Ensure you leave a hole at the top for ventilation.
Advanced Shelters

Snow Cave

Under conditions of heavy snow it may be impossible to find building materials, at least not quickly enough to get you out of the elements. Fortunately snow itself provides a good building material. Dig into a drift of firm snow to make a "cave". Make use of the fact that warm air rises and cold air sinks. Make your shelter on 3 levels. Build a SMALL fire on the highest, sleep in the middle and allow the low area to trap cold air. Use a stick or ice axe to force two holes in the roof, one to allow smoke to escape another to provide ventilation, fit a packed block of snow to the door.
Stick Walls

Screens

It is possible to build simple walls by piling sticks between uprights driven into the ground and (if possible) tied at the top. Fill them well with dirt to close gaps and keep out the elements.
Coverings

Make wattle and woven coverings for roofs or walls from springy saplings, small branches, plant stems, grasses or long leaves. First make a frame from less pliable material, tie off the struts and then weave in your materials. If you have little cordage drive the uprights into the ground and weave in enough of your material to make a basic framework, remove from the ground and finish.

Caves

Caves provide ready made shelter, even small caves can be made habitable and the larger ones make ideal permanent homes. Caves in rock set above valleys are normally dry inside, even if you get a little seepage through the roof. Caves can be cold and sometimes the local fauna may have beaten you to it so approach with care, if there are signs of other "inhabitants" light a fire near the entrance, but be sure to allow them an escape route, a good insulating layer of dry plant matter should help deal with the other problem. Beware of rockfall!!! Getting permanently trapped in your new home is not conducive to personal survival. Fires should be kept towards the rear of a cave, the smoke will rise and follow the roof to an exit, smoke from a fire lit near the entrance on the other hand will blow inside.

Sod House

Turf Houses are useful in areas where timber is scarce or you do not have the necessary tools to work in wood. Cut sections of turf 18x6in and build them like bricks, overlapping "Old English" fashion. Slope the walls towards the rear to give pitch to your roof, which will have to be supported by wooden spars or some other equally strong material. Make a cover as described above and attach to the spars, cover this with leaves and then a layer of turf. Build low, big enough to situp or maybe scuttle around in but not high enough to stand up straight. You can leave the leeward side open, or for a stronger build fit a doorway to the lee wall, for this however you will need timber for the frame. You can build in an internal hearth and chimney, but remember that turf is flammable, coat the hearth area thickly with clay before use, or light a fire outside the door with a fire reflector behind.

Log Cabins

The size of your log cabin will depend on two factors, the size of your timber and the number of people it is to house. A square or rectangle shape will be easiest to build and roof, 8ft square is a sensible size for a small cabin. Choose a level site to build your cabin, flatten a larger area if necessary, the walls must be level. Cutting down logs should ideally be accomplished with an axe or 2-handed saw although in a pinch the flexible saw from a survival kit will suffice. Unless you're sure you're up to the job don't attempt windows, you should get enough ventilation from the doorway, don't worry about making a door immediately, hang a blanket or other cloth over the door, it'll keep out the wind. Caulk between the logs with a mixture of mud and the wood chips from your logging, use a sharpened stick to force it into the gaps. Cover the roof with saplings before laying a layer of mud and turf. You can add a fireplace if you leave a space in the roof for smoke to escape, but never leave it unattended, put it out rather than risk a fire, if you do make a fireplace it may be worth using stone if you have a ready supply, make a fireplace and chimney from flat-sided rocks caulked with clay.

Greta Hawkins, principal of PS 90 is a Moron

If you can't support the country that you grew up in and industries it created for your parents to allow you to developed into a educated principle then leave. Don't ruin it for the kids. China might enjoy having you though!

http://www.nypost.com/p/news/local/school_silences_patriotic_song_xdunXcLPbE8S2rAEcZoUiP?utm_medium=rss%26utm_content=Local

Greta Hawkins, principal of PS 90 is a Moron

If you can't support the country that you grew up in and industries it created for your parents to allow you to developed into a educated principle then leave. Don't ruin it for the kids. China might enjoy having you though!

http://www.nypost.com/p/news/local/school_silences_patriotic_song_xdunXcLPbE8S2rAEcZoUiP?utm_medium=rss%26utm_content=Local

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Debris Hut Construction

A strong ridge pole and a good location are the first steps to the debris hut. Make sure the area is high and dry to avoid any problems with water drainage during a storm. The area was checked for abundance of material and possible hazards. (i.e. poisonous plants, insets, deadfalls, widow-makers, etc.) Direction is noted for the door. Look closely; you may find my tracks in a thin layer of debris under the ridgepole. 

Next, sticks are placed as ribbing along both sides of the ridge pole. This is done after I have laid down and measured the interior. Note the door opening near the sapling facing east or slightly southeast.

Still more sticks are placed to hold the debris up. More dry debris is also stuffed in the interior for comfortable bedding that lifts you off the cold ground. This is also a good time to roof off your entryway by placing four forked sticks into the ground at the desired height, and ribbing the top with a network of sticks.

Start piling on debris thick and high. Note the steep walls for shedding water.

The finished product! The walls are about 2 feet thick, good for a 20 degree night. This was probably my 10th debris hut. It took about 2 hours from start to finish. The rather speedy time (for me anyway) was no doubt due to the extraordinary abundance of material in this beautiful transition forest.

By Matt Pinkham


Debris Hut Construction

A strong ridge pole and a good location are the first steps to the debris hut. Make sure the area is high and dry to avoid any problems with water drainage during a storm. The area was checked for abundance of material and possible hazards. (i.e. poisonous plants, insets, deadfalls, widow-makers, etc.) Direction is noted for the door. Look closely; you may find my tracks in a thin layer of debris under the ridgepole. 

Next, sticks are placed as ribbing along both sides of the ridge pole. This is done after I have laid down and measured the interior. Note the door opening near the sapling facing east or slightly southeast.

Still more sticks are placed to hold the debris up. More dry debris is also stuffed in the interior for comfortable bedding that lifts you off the cold ground. This is also a good time to roof off your entryway by placing four forked sticks into the ground at the desired height, and ribbing the top with a network of sticks.

Start piling on debris thick and high. Note the steep walls for shedding water.

The finished product! The walls are about 2 feet thick, good for a 20 degree night. This was probably my 10th debris hut. It took about 2 hours from start to finish. The rather speedy time (for me anyway) was no doubt due to the extraordinary abundance of material in this beautiful transition forest.

By Matt Pinkham